Costuming help

[JodiArts]

I got a new sewing machine for Christmas and I'm eager to try it out & make my own costume. (The last 2 costumes I hired to have done - they turned out HORRIBLY!!!!)

I watch Cirque du Soleil costumes intently and ice skating costumes and theater / dance costumes (like for the production "Cats") and I see they all use what to me is a similar material. My husband (Greg Beatty) says it's called "4-way stretch"

Is it called 4-way stretch?
Where do I get this stuff?
Is it see-through or is it opaque?
Is it difficult to sew?
Can I paint it? If so, what type(s) of paint are good for this fabric?

Answers to any of the above questions - especially WHERE DO I GET IT are eagerly anticipated.

Thank you!!!

-Jodi Crump Beatty
<img src="graemlins/jester.gif" border="0" alt="[jester]" />

[Stretch]

lycra, 4 way stretch lycra.

[Steven Ragatz]

I'm going to let my wife handle this one:

Hi, Jodi. Congratulations on your new sewing machine! I'm sure you are eager to try your hand at sewing your own costumes. The fabrics you are asking about are indeed called four way stretch, or by the trade names, Lycra or Spandex. Or you can just refer to them as your WORST NIGHTMARE unless you have a LOT of experience as a seamstress.

While very versatile and very necessary for movement oriented arts costuming, this fabric requires very special handling, cutting and seaming techniques. If you are serious about sewing this type of fabric, I highly recommend that you enroll in a sewing class or take some private sewing lessons from someone experienced in handling these fabrics. If you are interested in sewing four way stretch on a regular basis, you will probably need to invest in a serger, rather than a regular sewing machine. (Sergers are the machines that generate seams like the ones you see inside T-shirts and swimwear, sort of a chain stitch.) Some regular machines have "stretch" stitches, but these are very frustrating to deal with and will very likely leave a bumpy, wavy edge to your seams.

The difficulties with stretch fabrics start at the very beginning of the costuming process, namely with pattern drafting. You will not find any commercial patterns that are similar to anything by Cirque du Soleil, or a commercial show like CATS. These shows use fabrics that cost hundreds of dollars per yard and all original designs. You'll most likely have to design and draft the pattern you want, unless you want the standard figure skating leotard and skirt (if that is the case, just look on line and buy it ready made). Pattern drafting requires some knowledge. I first learned how to do pattern drafting by taking two classes at a university, in opera and ballet costuming. It isn't particularly hard, but you do have to know how to go about it.

The next difficulty is in the cutting process. Unlike regular non stretch fabric, you don't leave much (if any) seam allowances on stretch fabric. This means your pattern must fit exactly right, because you won't have any room to reseam.

Once you actually start seaming, you have to know how to handle the tension on the fabric or it will stretch as you sew it and your seams will be wavy. If you make a mistake, you will have to cut off the seams because stretch stitches from a regular machine are IMPOSSIBLE to rip out. You will need to have special needles for your sewing machine. These are usually called "yellow band" or "ball point" needles, depending on the brand of machine you have.

If you still want to try it, you can buy basic spandex and occasionally cotton-Lycra at any typical fabric store, like Jo-ann fabrics, etc. If you have anything special in mind, you will probably need to order it. There are several good "discount" (ha!) fabric places on the internet. Just go to google and do a search for fabric. Typical prices for typical stretch fabrics are $5--$20 per yard. Some of them are transparent and some are opaque. You can paint and print on them but you must use techniques suitable for stretch fabrics. Stiff paints that do not allow the fabric to stretch, sort of defeat the purpose of using stretch fabrics in the first place.

If your intent is to learn how to do costuming, then I really recommend taking some classes in theatrical costuming through a local college. On the other hand, if you just want a really cool costume and you already have something in mind, you might be better served by hiring someone with professional experience to work with you to create your vision.

-Lisa Ragatz

For those on P.net who are interested, Lisa does freelance costuming work and is very knowledgeable about jugglers/circus/skating performers. Feel free to contact me about it.

Steve

[JodiArts]

thank you so much to Steven's wife and to Stretch.

Wow - so it's gonna be a hard journey! thank you for the recommendation to take a sewing class and a theater costume sewing class.

I designed a costume a few weeks ago and really feel it fits my character; I can't wait to have it in 2 different colors. It sounds as if I should hire it done rather than try it myself. I can sew anything by hand (at least so far) but you're very correct in assuming it's just an average sewing machine (not a surger) and that I have little experience at this point

The last 2 costumes were done so terribly; so I don't look forward to having it done.

Thank you!!!

-Jodi