juggling table?

[ben woodling]

hey,
i need to make a table to stand on and juggle/rola bola atop of. it needs to be transportable and light. im plannin on choppin a patio table up. but before i do so id like sum other ideas.
I know that a few people have the thing im afta(lookin in ur direction JIM), but im sure u paid lots for urs. i need sumit on the cheap.
thanks guys/and gurls

[Jim]

The table is hand made by me. I spent about US$400 on all the materials. I went to a pipe supply shop and got pipe fittings for the underside and lengths of pipe for the legs. The fittings are "SpeedRail" fittings... aluminum fittings for making railings. The table top is wood. The hardest part is locating good strong fittings for the legs. Look up "Pipe Supply" in a local phone directory and go have a look. Tell them what you want to do and they'll help. Bring in a picture of my table and they'll know exactly what you want. I put it all together, sanded the edges and painted it in about three days.

Here's a web link to start you off...

http://www.hollaender.com/?page=flanges

They didn't have this stuff on the web when I built the table 8 years ago!

Good luck.
Jim

Here's a shot of my table:


[ 06-10-2002: Message edited by: Jim ]</p>

[Chance]

Forget the table, where did you get those SOCKS??!! [img]eek.gif[/img]

[Jim]

It was Oktoberfest, and not only am I wearing knee socks, but also lederhosen.

Jim

[Scot Free]

Looks more like Robert Downey Jr. fresh from the Narconon Centre in Hamburg. (crica 1997)
[/QB][/QUOTE]

[Tom B]

Are you able to bounce silicones on your platform Jim? Would wood have enough stability for bouncing silicones?

[Jim]

[quote]Originally posted by Tom B:
<strong>Are you able to bounce silicones on your platform Jim? Would wood have enough stability for bouncing silicones?</strong><hr></blockquote>

Yup.

Tabletop is 3/4inch plywood with an outer edge of 2x6's underneath. It's nice and firm for bounce juggling.

[The Amazing Beaumanz]

jim,

what are the feet on your table?? and where can i find them?? I've searched everywhere for a good set.


Thanx
Dallas

[The Amazing Beaumanz]

any suggestions from anyone??

[Jim]

[quote]Originally posted by The Amazing Beaumanz:
<strong>jim,

what are the feet on your table?? and where can i find them?? I've searched everywhere for a good set.

Thanx
Dallas</strong><hr></blockquote>

I used the #41 flange for the bottoms of my legs. I glued rubber to the bottoms of the flanges so they wouldn't slip around.



That image is from this page (also linked in a previous post.):

http://www.hollaender.com/?page=flanges

You should be able to find these fittings at a pipe supply company.

Jim

[The Amazing Beaumanz]

Thank you very much jim!!!!

[thayr]

[thayr]

Table

I'm in the process of making a table. The top is 3/4" plywood. The legs are these: http://www.tablelegsonline.com/talle...s-zoom-34.asp.

The legs attach with a bracket (14 screws per bracket) into a 2x6 which is screwed into each corner of the table, there is a very slight angle which I cut onto each corner board so as the legs come down angled outward. The load rating is somewhere around 400 lbs. 2x6's meet up with the corner boards and continue all around the underside edge of the table.

I'm now in the process of attaching two aluminum bars at the bottoms of each leg, one bar connects two legs, so the two bars make an 'X' underneath the table. I also drilled holes through the bottoms of each leg and will attach wires which will go to the opposite underside of the table, I'll then tighten them to add tension (4 wires in all).

I'll be putting linoleum on the top of the table (which I got from a flooring store, it was in the scraps section so I got it for cheap) , and I'm thinking of putting a strip of velcro along the edge to which I can attach fabric.

So far I've spent around $300. I'll post a photo once I get it finished.

[thayr]

Here's the finished table:

The foot of each leg is adjustable.

The leg brackets and the piece for a pole to be inserted into (I bought two plumbing brackets and a short piece of steel pipe which I had welded together, the welding was done free of charge from a local welding shop)

The hardware that tightens the tension cables, the hardest part of the whole job was getting the plastic coated wire through the wire crimpers (lots of cursing with that)

The inner workings of the table. Plastic coated wire with two crimps on each byte, one end to an eyelet other to the tightening hardware. Aluminum cross bars (they're not attached to the table but stick onto a protruding bolt so they don't fall off, when the cables are tightened the bars become tight as well)

The table top, vinyl flooring from the scrap section of a carpet/flooring store. The hole for the pole to be inserted.

The fabric siding attaches with velcro (I think the velcro thing will be the first to give me trouble after a few months of usage, I guess I'll find out)

The underside.

The table complete!

Table disassembled.

Custom made bag from an Amish tack shop ($115 for the table bag and custom bag for Rolla Bollas)

[Chance]

Speaking as a professional carpenter, prop builder and cabinet maker, the design is interesting but has some basic design flaws.

I'll get the biggest one out of the way first. The plastic feet. I know they are adjustable, but there are better solutions than plastic. These feet will determine the load limit (what you guess to be 400 pounds), and over time they will be the first thing to break down. A different choice would have given you double that with no weakening over time, and no fear of break down due to vibration/ wear and tear, etc.

The angle of the legs could have been sharper. I would have made the feet fall outside of the tops profile. (i.e., if the feet are 2 inches wide, I would have placed each foot 2 1/2 inches outside the profile.) Jim's table is much closer to this idea.

Plus, by widening the stance you make the table "sit" between the four corners. This makes the table much stronger and reduces vibration during use. In fact, the more weight you add, the more stable it becomes.

The cables and come alongs are totally unecessary. They don't add anything to the design except weight, extra set up and tear down. The cross members should be all you need, and if they're not, if you still get unwanted vibration during use without the cables, that was the time to adjust out the stance as already mentioned.

Look again at Jim's table. It has no cross members or cables, and I'll wager it weighs about half as much as your table does.

I can see where you wanted to go with this. I can count the hours by looking at the photos, and I imagine how the design evolved over time. Don't get discouraged by my comments. It was a good first try. Practice makes perfect.

Chance